Route:  Ingals, E Ridge
Climbed:  June 16, 2001


From Ingals lake you will see a large notch in the east ridge with
a snowfield or tallus slope below.  This is your access to the east ridge.
Climb the snow or tallus through the constriction to the upper
snowfield or tallus.  Access the ledge above via a chimney on the left
(4th class) or a ramp on the right).  First pitch starts here.

Pitch 1: Climb right trending "ramp" toward the notch.  Finish pitch
by climbing up steeper rock to belay on ledges near top of the chock
stone.

Pitch 2:  Climb up onto ridge, traverse easy ground, climb up down
sloping ledges, then climb down a corner to another notch with
chock stone.

Pitch 3:  Climb through hole below chock stone.  Climb easy ground
right of ridge crest and return to crest where it steepens.

Pitch 4:  Climb up steeper ridge then traverse a knife edge.  A little
further climb down to ledge with steep wall around it.

Pitch 5:  Climb over small rib and traverse east ground to right of
ridge crest.  Belay at small notch below place where ridge steepens.

Pitch 6:  Climb a ramp to the right of the ridge crest.  Step across
open space, around corner and up.  I believe this to be the 5.7 crux,
though it protected with small camps, not the #3 Camalot that Nelson
called for.  Above is easier ground (exposed 4th class) leading to the
summit.

Rappel south ridge.  There are good bolts.




[Route description written by Tom Unger]