Route:  Mt. Stuart/N Ridge (2)
Climbed:  July 25, 2001


This was my second climb of Stuart's North Ridge.  This time we did
it as a two day carry over, biving high on the ridge.  This was
easily done in two days.  I had forgotten how much fun the climing
is.  I describe the pitches in detail, though it is not relly
necessary, you just stay on the ridge.  Also Jim Nelson's book has a
very detailed route description, though somewhat different.

Approach Gully: This can be scramled.  Stay on the sounder rock to
the left.  Higher up there will be some 5th class moves, but on solid
rock and not too much exposure.  At the top there are several bivi
sites.  Climb past all of these to a notch.  There may be snow in the
gully on the far side of the notch.  This is a good place to rope up.

More scrambling.  Climb up 10 ft on the ridge side of the notch and
pick up a ledge that traverses across the left (E) side of the ridge.
After 100 ft or so turn right into a gully.  Climb up toward the
right, then to the left, then down a little, then up to the ridge
crest.  If you have gone far enough you will be below a steep 20ft
face with an open book at the top.

Pitch 1: Climb the 20ft face. 5.7.  Belay from the top.

Pitch 2: Climb along the crest.  The rock is polishe white where most
people climb. There is an awkward, but shor offwidth in this pitch.

Pitch 3: Climb up a steeper portion of the ridge, following several
open books.  Belay from sloping slabs.  

Pitch 4: Climb sloping slabs and belay from a blocky prominance.

Pitch 5, the Fun Flake: Climb over the blocky prominance to the left.
Don't climb the steep face, but traverse left until you can climb up
a flake.  At the top of the flake don't climb the steep face but now
go right over flake/horn then back to the crest. Climb to the top of
a tower and belay from there.

Pitch 6: Down climb to the notch and belay from the base of the the
face.

Pitch 7, the Fun Friction Pitch: Climb the crack system in the center
of the face.  Climb along the ridge crest, then drop down to a small
ledge on the left and belay from there.  This is comfortable for 2,
and moderately flat.  Lower down there are two other flater ledges
just large enough for 1 to sleep.  This is a reasonable amount of
distance to cover from the TH.

Pitch 8: Climb along ridge crest.  This pitch has a long, exposed
step down to a notch.  I protected it with a double on a horne behind
me then fliped the sling off.

Pitch 9: Climb slabs to base of Great Gendarm.  

Rappel off right side to sandy ledge (single rope).

Pitch10: Traverse ledges and enter large gully.  This is likely to
hold ice.  Climb out of gully on 10 ft face Often verglass.  Protects
well with small cams.  Climb across cresent and up to larger ledge.  

Pitch 11: Climb up cracks and then ledges and blocks.  The terrain is
much easier and there are several large ledges up here.  

Scramble up easy terrain for several hundred feet.  There is one
exposed corner.  Stay left

I am unsure of the best way to the summit.  Best I've done is to
climb back toward northridge crest then top out, low 5th class..
Contnuing west was harder.  However, I have heard you can scramble
the whole way.




[Route description written by Tom Unger]