Route:  Slesse/SW Face
Climbed:  July 14, 2002


Approach:  The trailhead is difficult to locate.  Roadwork and
overgrowth of brush has made old descriptions inaccurate.  The
following was written after my climb in 2002.

Cross International border at Sumas then turn east on TransCanada Hwy
1. Exit Hwy 1 at Sardis/Cultus Lake Exit, #119-A (Veddar Rd) and go
south.  Turn left on Chilliwack Rd immediately before crossing a
bridge.  At 13.2 miles from turn, after crossing Slesse creek and
toping a rise turn right onto Slesse Creek Road.  The correct road has
a sign on a chain link fence that reads "DANGER ... EXPLOSIVES".
Drive 3.5 miles.  You will encounter a fork, stay left on the main
road.  (In 2002 a sign said "New Slesse Creek Trail").  Immediately
(~100 ft.) the road turns sharply left up hill (and may be gated).  At
this bend turn right onto a smaller road.  At 1 mile from that turn,
after crossing a wood bridge and climbing a steep hill you come to an
intersection with two old roads.  This is not obvious - the main road
has been graded such that this looks like a left hand turn and the old
roads are very overgrown.  It is best to park here and walk the rest.
The right hand road goes down hill.  The left hand road the main road
continues up to a clear cut.  Take the middle road which continues at
the same elevation.  In several minutes you will come to a turnaround
with two other roads leading off.  Take the left hand road.  In 20
minutes you will come to a substantial foot bridge.  Beyond that the
old road has returned to trail and may be very brushy.  It is more or
less flat.  In 40 minutes or so, before crossing a second significant
creek, you come to the trail head.  It is on the left hand side of the
trail.  There is an old, weathered sign.  10 ft up, visible from the
old road is a memorial plaque.  The trail climbs very steeply and is
well marked with flagging, 3cm metal squares, and 10cm metal squares.
There is no water on the trail.

At 5,800 ft the trail crosses a nob and you have good views of the
peak.  Camp on the ridge just below this.  We didn't see any good
camp sites higher.  Camp may be dry in late season.

Orientation: CAG marks 3 gullies.  The left (G1) leads to a notch at
the left base of the summit block.  The middle (G2) leads up to the
base of the NW face.  The right (G3) separates giant gendarme from
main summit block.

Climb: From camp follow trail up ridge toward peak.  There is good
trail the whole way - if the trail is not clear you probably missed a
turn.  Cross the snowfield and enter G1 (40 deg, easy).  When nearly
at the top exit to right on easy ledges.  Follow faint trail around
corner (near horizontal flake) to enter G2 (exposed 3rd class).  Climb
G2.  The gully itself has some 5th class moves, may be easier to
right.  (The climb of the NW face starts from a large pillar left of
the top of the gully).  From the top, at the base of the NW face,
follow easy ledges rightward toward G3.  The entrance to G3 has an
exposed harder move (low 5th) - belay may be advised.  Climb G3 (3rd
and 4th, little exposure) for several hundred ft to where it ends.
Scan the wall above for (1) rappel slings and 2) a good climbing
route.  We climbed the blocky face right of the rappel route (5.6)
one rope length to the upper rappel station.  From there traverse
left around a corner exposed 3rd or 4th class) then 100ft across easy
ledges to a gravely gully which leads up a short distance to the
summit.  


Descent: Traverse south along the summit crest until you reach a notch
(150ft).  From notch descend gravely gully west for about 100ft.  Exit
gully to left and traverse easy ledges (100ft) till you cross a ridge
(3rd and 4th, exposed).  Find a good rappel block here.  A double
rope rappel takes you to the descent gully (G3), a single rope
rappel takes you to another good rappel anchor.  Descend the gully
south, passing large gendarme (3rd class, little exposure).  Where
gully steepens exit to the right.  Initial moves and traverse are
exposed above the chasm of the lower gully - belay advised.  Cross the
ridge and you should find yourself at the base of the NW face.
Traverse easy ledges until you are at the top of a broad, slabby gully
(G2).  2 single rope rappels down this take you to more easy ledges.
Traverse left toward the notch north of the summit block.  Enter the
gully (G1) just below the notch, descend, cross snow field, and return
to camp.  

    Seattle to trailhead:  4 hours.
    Trailhead to camp:  4.5 hours.
    Camp to summit:  5 hours.
    Summit to camp:  4 hours.
    Camp to trailhead:  3.5 hours.  


 

[Route description written by Tom Unger]