Route:  Arriva - Logan Traverse
Climbed:  July 3, 2004


4 Day traverse from Silent Lakes to Mt Logan.  We started at and
exited via Easy Pass but you could also exit Thunder Creek.  The route
described descends Logan via the Douglas and exits the valley below to
reach the trail in Fisher Creek.  This took only 2.5 hours from the
snow line at 5,900ft to the trail, but had extremely brushy,
unpleasant sections.  Look at the Banded Glacier approach as an
alternative exit.

Day 1: Hike the trail over easy pass and down to Fisher Creek.  50 ft
below the NPS sign post (as the trail turns down valley) pick up an
old trail and follow it up valley.  If you miss this trail it does not
matter much, the going is easy.  Hike pleasant meadows then up to top
of waterfall.  Here turn right up a snow chute/gully.  Ascend this and
cross the ridge to Silent Lakes (40deg snow).  Good camping and views
on SW most knoll.

Day 2: Turn the corner of the ridge west of Silent Lakes and hike west
across the slope staying between 6,800 and 7,000 ft.  Easy going.
Cross the pass on the S ridge of Arriva.  The west side of this pass
descends into a steep, loose, and dangerous gully.  Staying on firmer
rock to the right will improve your chance of survival.  Eventually
cliffs will force you into the gully.  Descend gully then exit the
left side onto easier talus when possible.  Descend talus to
pleasant meadow at 6,760ft.  

Climb moderate snow slopes to a pass at 6,880ft.  Hike NW over point
7,135.  From the next low point in the ridge descend to the SW.  A
steep, loose gully descends directly from this saddle.  A better route
is found in steep meadows to the left of this gully.  Stay out of the
gully until you are just about at the valley floor, even through
occasional bands of small trees.  Hike up stream through pleasant
meadows toward Fisher Pass.  

The next part is going to hurt.  Ascend thick brush between small pine
trees, staying north of the stream.  Ascend to knoll about 1/4 mile
west of Fisher Pass.  Good camping here.

Day 4:  This day has two parts.  Cache your gear and climb Logan then
return to your gear and hike down valley

1. Climb Logan via the Douglass glacier.  From the knoll, reach the
glacier by making a lateral traverse until you can enter a large
chasm (gully).  There descend moderate snow.  At 5,900 ft traverse below
cliffs until you can climb back up.  Leave unnecessary gear here.
Ascend to the Douglass-Banded Col.  From there scramble to the summit.
Note that the first summit is a false and you can pass it on steep
ledges on east side.  This scramble is steep and exposed 3rd class.
Many may want a rope.

2. Return to gear.  Descend loose talus to basin at about 5,400ft.
We avoided the stream bed and blow-down trees by entering forest on
the right.  Brushy.  Descend to basin at 4,700ft.  Again we entered
trees on right and descended thick brush.  Eventually we were back at
stream and followed boulders at edge where possible.  Below 4,200ft
work right, away from stream for thinner brush.  When you come to an
old slide work up toward isolated pine trees.  After this you can stay
mainly in open forest for easy going.  We crossed Fisher creek on one
of several logs.  Hike to Fisher Camp.

Day 4:  Exit via Easy Pass.

The greatest difficulties were the two steep descents on day 2 and the
bushwhack out on day 3.  We used ice axes frequently.  Carried
crampons but did not need them.  Standard glacier gear.


[Route description written by Tom Unger]