Route: Glacier Pk/S Ridge & Traverse Climbed: Aug xx, 1993 Day1: Late start, hike into Kennedy hot springs. Day2: Hike to Red pass and then cross country E, following stream through meadow. Stopped in flat basin with braided steams. Day 3: Self arrest practice on snow field. Packed up and hiked up to camp at base of White Chuck Glacier. Very barren basin. Day 4: Practice on glacier. Doubts about making crossing. Then another party came through and we decided to go. Packed and moved to glacier gap. Camped just E of saddle on to edge of glacier. Day 5: Depart before dawn. Climb ridge to S. Traverse small glacier to gain long ridge leading to Disappointment Pk. Stayed on ridge to avoid glacier, but should have descended to top edge of glacier when ridge became difficult. Two possible routes: over Disappointment Pk or traverse glacier in N.E. direction through a gap onto another glacier. We choose to go over Disappointment Pk, which is steep and loose but do-able (class 3 to 4). last 7 ft involve an exposed climbing move. We get the rope out for this. Other side of Pk easy to traverse to saddle between Disappointment and Glacier Pk. From saddle ascend pumice slopes to rocks. Leave packs at rocks and ascend pumice gully to summit. Small bivi pad on summit. Back down gully. Get our packs and traverse N.W around summit rocks on pummice and snow slopes. Then descend a little to long ridge on NW side of peak. This is the standard ascent route. Descend path on ridge to glacier. Descend upper portion of glacier then get scared descending icy connection between upper and lower. Descend lower. Very difficult getting through rubble at base of lower glacier. Very tired. Stop on top of cliff looking down at Bolder basin where most people camp. 13 hours. Day 6: Down to bolder basin, down forested ridge, down to Kennedy, (soak,) and out. [Route description written by Tom Unger]