Route:  The Tooth/S Face
Climbed:  March 28, 1995


Party: Brad, Andrew

Followed trail to source lake - there are a few tracks in the snow.
There are LOTS of ski tracks coming down gully which leads S to the
Tooth.  From upper basin can see the Tooth, a detached spire to the L
(S), and a lower crag further L (S) on ridge.  Ascend gully between
detached spire and lower crag.  Drop over west side of ridge, traverse
below rocks of detached spire and then ascend to pass between the
Tooth and detached spire.  This is Pineapple pass.

First pitch is up cracks in center of face.  Arrives at nice belay
ledge where runners are looped around two blocks.  Second pitch
ascends narrow ramp to left.  This is exposed and difficult to protect
due to loose (hollow sounding) flakes.  But not too difficult to climb
over.  Becky calls this the crux.  Route then ascends larger ramp to
right, passing prominent tree.  Becky says the tree is used for rappel
- looked too old and weak to trust.  Continue past tree, up wide ramp,
through bushes and back to left where there are stronger trees.
(Above bushes was covered with snow).  Could continue pitch further.
Looked like the summit was one more pitch up, with easy climbing to
the right.

From the first belay ledge down there are many places for the rappel
rope knot to catch.  And it did.  Andrew climbed back up, with prussik
and short tie in, to free the knot.  Suggest that the last person to
descend stop and pull the knot till it is in sight from below.  Or
that half length rappel is done to an intermediate ledge which looks to
have a substantial rock horn for another rappel.

We are not ready to leave Pineapple pass till past 6:00PM.  We rappel
down east facing gully which is snow filled.  It is not used for
ascent because it is too steep.  It may not be suitable for rappel when
not snow filled.  Brad and I hike back up to our skis.  (If any gear
is left below, suggest parking in below detached crag so it is
accessible if party chooses to rappel down this gully).

From source lake, we stay on the N side of the creek and follow the
skier tracks, which make a very nice and very direct trail back to
Alpintal.  Could have saved an hour on the ascent by taking this
track.  Look for it at the NW base of Alpintal.  Could also approach
the tooth via the Alpintal chair lift and a ski traverse of Denny mtn.
However, terrain looked steep and difficult.





[Route description written by Tom Unger]