Route:  McCellen Bute/N Ridge
Climbed:  April 26, 1995


Party: Andrew and Tom

Arrive at trail head around 6 am.  Hike up trail to snow, then find
large gully with some bare rock and water.  Hike up that, traverse a
little more to the L to another gully.  Up that to steep heather
benches.  Up to more snow then to the S ridge.  Estimate 45 deg slope.
Hike along ridge or off to west side to base of summit.  Rock scramble
to summit.

On descent the snow on the our ascent route (east side of ridge)
begins to slide so we head S staying to W of ridge till we reach the
E-W ridge.  Curve E, descend, then traverse back N under the slopes,
staying in the forest.  Rejoin our up path where we entered first
gully.

Note that there appears to be a climbers trail to the N couloir, which
splits from the main trail in a thicket of slide alder at what must be
the base of a long avalanche chute(!).





[Route description written by Tom Unger]