Route:  Mt. Stuart/N Ridge (1)
Climbed:  Aug 27, 1995


Approach via Goat's Pass and cross Stuart glacier up high.  Gully to
ridge is obvious.  We encountered steep snow at the base of the gully
and set a fixed line.  John reports the gully is often snow free.
Ascend solid blocks to left of gully.  There are several bouldery moves
near top of gully (low 5th class face climbing on solid rock done
unroped).  3 or 4 good bivi sites at top of gully.

Climb past bivi sites, working onto ledges on east side of ridge.
Ascend another gully (solid rock, bouldery moves) back to ridge.  Gully
is often done roped and counted as first pitch.  First, or next pitch
is crux, a face that leads to a short, steep open book with crack in
corner (5.7).  Belay from ledge just beyond top of crack.  Second
pitch steps around exposed corner, ascends crack which becomes ridge
crest, then onto face with easy layback.  Step over large flake to
belay from hole.  Third pitch traverses from hole, ascends cracks,
then easy ramps.  Belay from large ledge.  Fourth pitch ascends easy
ramps.  Belay from cluster of blocks.  Fifth pitch "Fun Flake" moves
left from blocks through hole, then up a large crack which curves
right becoming this huge flake.  Traverse right on flake under block
back toward ridge then up easy cracks.  Belay from top of small tower.
Down climb from tower, step over gap, and belay from base of the "fun
friction ramp."  Sixth pitch ascends friction ramp (good pro in small
and large cracks) then traverses along steep ridge crest.  Belay from
sunny ledge e of ridge.  Good bivi site for two people.  Seventh pitch
ascends cracks, over tower, awkward step down, then up ridge a little
way.  Eighth pitch ascends easy cracks and friction to base of Great
Gendarme.

Single rope rappel off west side of ridge to ledge.  Traverse ledge
(look for fixed pin), enter gully, exit gully to right (look for fixed
pin at top), traverse crescent ledge and ascend cracks.  Best belay is
probably set in cracks.  Next pitch continues up a series of steps and
ledges.  Belay at block.  From here scramble up ridge toward summit.
We worked our way back toward the N ridge which involved some more
difficult climbing.  The standard route curves to the right somewhere
and has a few bouldery moves but no roped climbing.





[Route description written by Tom Unger]