Route:  Triumph/NE Ridge
Climbed:  Aug, 1997 and Jul, 2006


Hike trail to Thorton Lake, cross outlet, pass through Thorton camp,
and pick up a way trail which passes the lower lake on the W side.
(Pass through the camp toward toilet then take right fork at sign post
for toilet.)  Cross upper-lower stream and hike up right bank of
stream to upper lake.  Ascend long gully to notch.  The talus fields
near lake are awkward and easiest going seems to be to traverse high
and into gully.  There is a climbers trail which can be picked up near
the cliffs on the right before entering gully.

Good camping at notch.  Last reliable/easy water.  The climb can be
done here in 12 to 15 hours round trip.  Alternately, you can continue
on to the bivi ledges which offer an interesting camp with spectacular
views.

From notch traverse snow below the glacier to the obvious low notch in
the NE ridge.  Climb an easy ramp on right which leads to the notch.
Before getting to the notch step around corner to left above gully
(somewhat tricky move which if done with a full pack may need belay).
Ascend easy slabs to just below second notch for 1 rope length.
Ascend steeper blocks and then a ramp (still easy climbing) to rappel
station at old tree.  The good bivi ledge is 5 ft above this.  This is
the first flat step above the notch.  Space for 5 or so.  Climbing to
here is easy and can be done with full packs and boots.  Two full
pitches.

From bivi ledge ascend steep face onto another broad flat spot on
ridge (low to mid 5th class, 100 ft).  Easy scramble across flats,
possibly more bivi sites.  Continue scramble until at the base of
another steep face.  Climb this for 1 pitch, easier to left, to
another broad flat ledge.

From here simul-climb along ridge crest, up and over towers.  Towers
look steep but climbing is generally easy.  Ridge gets real narrow
just before it starts to rise again.  Continue simul-climbing either
on ridge crest (two mid 5th class steps) or on easier ledges to right
until you come to the base of a steeper face with a off-width crack in
a right facing corner.

The crack is fun 5.7 climbing, mostly on face to right.  Reports of
easier climbing if you traverse right then ascend.  Belay on the next
large flat ledge at the "great notch" (could bivi here too).

Move the belay easily into the left most side of the notch.  From here
an easy ledge leads left around the corner and then up to heather
benches.  You'll want to belay the ledge and first step up.  Above
there the climbing is easy but exposed and the protection moderately
poor so simul-climb or solo.  I climbed toward the right, reached the
rigde, and belayed my second up.  Scramble easier ridge 100 linear ft
to summit.

Descent: The descent is entirely on the ridge crest, rappelling the steep
sections and simul-climbing the flat sections.  I used double ropes but
it appears there would be enough rap stations for single rope.

Scramble back down easy ridge to where it steepens.  Down climb this
or rappel to top of the notch.  Double rope rap into notch and ledge
above crack pitch.  Double rope rap to base of crack pitch.  50M ropes
may be a little short, requiring a 10 ft scramble to next rap station.
Double rope rap to narrow flat section of ridge.  First down will need
to build anchor here.  There is a secure ledge on which to do this.
Simul-climb ridge to the top of the next face.  The largest tower has
a rap station at the top but can also be down-climbed for speed.
Double rope rap down to next scramble ledges and scramble to top of
face above bivi ledge.  Rap to bivi ledge.  Rap from tree down ramp
and then to station on block off the left side of ridge.  Rap down
slabs to trees.  Rap from trees down face to snow or rock on glacier.



[Route description written by Tom Unger]