Route:  The Mole/N Face
Climbed:  June 6, 1998



Approach: Best approach is Hook Creek.  Begin approach as for
YellowJacket Tower.  When below cliffs on the ridge traverse west into
Hook creek and ascend open slopes in center of valley.  There is
limited camping in among the last large trees in the valley but these
were all burned in 1995 and not the most aesthetic site.  More
pleasing camping is had on Edward plateau but there may not be water.
The Plateau can be reached by ascending closely under the Duolith to a
notch.  It is possible to descend W from this notch into Rat Creek.
The rest of the Lost World Plateau is accessible by crossing Edward
Plateau.  

The Mole is accessed via a side gully which then splits into two
gullies, one below the north face and one below the east face (the
descent).  Entrance to this gully is perhaps 700 ft below the Edward
Plateau.

Climbing: ascend the gully to the west side of the north face.  Climb
a large, grassy crack straight up for 80 ft where it forks.  Take the
left fork and climb up and across the face to the treed ledge on the
skyline.  5.6, 5.7 climbing in a wide crack.  220 ft from base to
treed ledge with semi-hanging belay (choose a good spot).  From treed
ledge continue up the east side of the face, passing a dead white tree
(loose) for another 220 ft to the summit.  More 5.6, 5.7 climbing in a
variety of smaller cracks, easing near the summit.

Descent:  Down climb or rappel off S side and work around to large
ledge on east side.  Here find a rappel station (piton and old bolt).
Double rope should reach top of gully from here.  For single ropers
the guides report another bolted rap station but I didn't find it.
Instead, off to the left there is a sloped ledge with an embedded horn
zwhich can be used for a second rappel (I backed this up with a nut in
the crack above).  Bring boots and axe if there is snow in the gully.

Notes:  The north face is steep and shear providing sustained, exposed
5.6-5.7 climbing.  Protection is mostly mid to large size pieces.  





[Route description written by Tom Unger]