Route: Dumbell Mountain/SW direct variation Climbed: July 11, 1998 Note that Beckey's standard SW route is wrong. Crossing the NW ridge to the N flanks is blocked by a cliff on the N side, which prevents access to the glacier on the N flanks. It is possible that this cliff appeared due to recession of the glacier in the years since Beckey wrote his route description. The more direct variation is correct. Approach: We approached via Spider Gap. There is a clear trail that traverses away from the gap to the NE, traversing the N slopes of the ridge running to Dumbell. Follow this till it rounds the corner. Where a broad bench runs N there are easy slopes leading up to ridge. Several crossings are possible, we took the right most and descended and traversed down the S slopes of the ridge into upper Phelps Cr. basin. Traverse high across this to the base of Dumbell. A more direct approach would be to follow the trail to the head of Phelps creek then ascend directly toward Dumbell, possibly staying right to avoid cliffs. Climbing: The visible rock face is the false summit. It is easy to gain the NW ridge but further progress is blocked. Parties with a rope could rappel to the upper slopes of the glacier and climb easily to the notch between summits. Otherwise, traverse S until a gully opens up which is cliffy on the left and has easy slabs on the right. This is the more direct variation described by Beckey. Climb the gully and slabs. Descend easily to a snow field and ascend that and 3rd class rock to the notch between summits. Ascend the N flanks of the true summit. Alternately, ascend directly between twin ridges eminating S from the peak, then climb to the notch between the summits. Traverses: Descending into the basin E of Dumbell looks interesting. It seems that there are two possible routes. One is a notch on the ridge just S of the peak. Beckey's photo has it labeled as "Notch". This is easily gained from the W. The E side is a spooky goat trail that traverses a loose bench above cliffs. I walked the first 60 ft. Beyond that it looked like it got more difficult. Rope recommended. Alternately, one may descend the glacier on the N flanks of Dumbell. Even in July the lower portion of this glacier was exposed ice. It may be possible to descend the rock just east of the glacier. From the base of this glacier traverse east to a col that leads into Big Creek. [Route description written by Tom Unger]