Route:  Formidable/Formidable Glacier
Climbed:  August 9, 1998


Approach: Hike the Ptarmagin traverse from Cascade pass to the heather
benches past Red Ledge.  Find a comfortable camp at the southern end
of the benches.  From here continue along the trail until it is easy
to descend scree to the Middle Cascade glacier below the large ice
fall (5600ft).

Climbing:  Ascend snow to rock benches below the glacier.  Easiest
access is at the right side of the glacier.  Climb glacier, staying
right of rock tower.  To reach the col it is best to stay on snow for
as long as possible as there is much loose rock on the rock.

From col we climbed up just right of the crest till able to step
through a notch and belay.  Another pitch traversed the head of small
gully to small ridge.  Double rope rappel brought us to the 3rd class
ledges.  From there progression toward summit on S side was blocked by
large gully.  We climbed back to ridge crest and traversed to notch at
head of that gully on N side of ridge.  

Alternative routes from head of glacier are: One) descend S. side of
col a short distance then climb up a corner to easier ledges which
should lead to the 3rd class ledge.  Traverse this till blocked by
large gully and continue as above.  Two) continue climbing on N side
of ridge crest.  Instead of stepping through it would have been
possible to enter into another easy gully on N side which would have
taken us up to ridge crest.  From there continue along or near crest,
mainly N side.

From the second notch (head of large gully), down climb and step
across small slot at w end then climb up down sloping ledges (with
good holds) for 30 ft till it is easy to step onto north side of
ridge.  From here follow 3rd class ledges several rope lengths to
another notch.  

Drop packs here and scramble to summit on easy terrain south of ridge.
Return to notch and begin descent down south face from there.  After
passing black tower on left work left until you are above cliffs and
at the edge of a steep gully.  There is an improbably traverse on an
ever narrowing ledge around this gully to easy ledges on far side.
Continue down these to snow field.  Descend snow field, traversing
left under cliffs to where one can enter another gully through cliffed
ridge.  Descend this (can be done with single rope rap) and continue
traversing SE toward obvious gully to low spot on ridge. 

From there rejoin Ptarmagin traverse and work back over
Formidable-Spider col and back to camp.




[Route description written by Tom Unger]