Route: Forbidden Pk/NW Face Climbed: July 10, 1999 Plan: Bivi at west ridge notch, rappel to glacier, gain ridge, climb to summit, return to bivi. We did not succeed in doing this because a foot of new snow fell the week before. This left significant amounts of soft snow on the north west face, and significant avalanche activity. But here's how it might work: From the notch, looking down the north side and a little to the left one can see a rock horn with a rappel sling on it. Beyond that the face steepens and can't be seen. That sling is at the top of what should be a rock band above the glacier head wall. Beckey says that two rappels will get you to the headwall. Bring fresh slings. The headwall will be steep snow with a bergshrund below. Bring pickets and crampons. Beckey says to rappel across the bergshrund on the left (west) end. This looked feasible. The NW face has a bit of a rib in the upper section. Lower down this rib becomes a sharp ridge that has a horizontal bridging section then steepens further down. It looks like one can traverse from the base of the shrund over to the ridge, loosing only a little elevation, and gain the rib at the upper part of the steep lower section. From there, scramble up several pitches to the bridge that connects to the face. This bridge looks quite knife like from the west side but the east side is quite a bit more broken up and should be easily climb-able. Then climb the face to the summit. Rapping down from the notch is a bold move, but the whole climb does not look that hard. The upper NW face is broken enough that it looks feasible to traverse back to the west ridge notch, if pressed for time. [Route description written by Tom Unger]