(Dierdre Route at Squamish, BC, Sept 7, 1994) Josh Boverman, Tom Unger Whoops! I forgot my fear on Liberty Bell, am now climbing Dierdre and am scared again! It's not that I'm more scared - rather that this is a longer route and I will be scared for longer. Why am I involved in this Stupid Dangerous sport. And what is taking Josh so long. I've been at this belay station for over an hour. It's the most god offal uncomfortable belay I've ever been at. A cross between hanging and sitting. I have to lay back against the anchors which puts all the weight on my waist strap, and compresses my waist. Plus my calfs are getting sore from standing on this steep rock. Plus the leader of the team behind us is sitting just below me and there is a line of people below that waiting for the route. Finally Josh says "Off Belay". I dismantel the anchor and prepare to go. As soon as the weight comes off my harness I stop thinking about my waist and start thinking about how much I have to pee. How I ignored it for this long I don't know. Expecting a a hot dry day, I drank a lot of water before starting. Big mistake. All I can think about now is peeing. I forget to be scared as I make my way around the slippery wet spot, and as I work past the under cling layback that is just before the belay station. Where can I pee? Can't pee on the rock - there are about 10 people down below. Damm sport routes. I empty a water bottle and pee into that. Josh is impressed that I nearly fill the bottle. Looks a lot like gator aid. That's better, now I can be scared again. Josh is scared too. He took so long because he climbed right past the belay anchors, ran out of slings for protection, then ran out of rope, and still couldn't find the belay station. He backed down some 15 ft, and dinked around with gear before finally noticing the two bolts 6 ft off the route. Josh suggests that we rappel off from here and ask the team below us to pull our gear. I'm not scared enough to do something that humiliating. It's my lead and I take it. This pitch is a little less steep, but the rock more slick. And the only opportunity for protection is old pin scars, which come about every 15 ft and take all the 3/4" cams that we have. When the cams run out I start placing dubious nuts. The last piece I set is a pair of opposing nuts that may hold a flea. Them I'm at the anchors. This is way more comfortable than the last belay station I hung at. My, there's a lot of empty space below me. When Josh arrives he comments on how fast I lead that last pitch. Of course it was fast - I had very little opportunity to spend time setting protection. I must remember to never do this again. The team below us is nowhere to be seen. Josh leads the final pitch, which has the "sting at the end". When I get up there I find the sting is a final vertical wall which is damm difficult to climb up over. I grab the rope, or a root, or something for which I loose style points - but I'm more concerned about getting off the climb. "Cool climb, dude!" We sit an munch on some food feeling very satisfied with ourselfs. I'll have to come back and lead the final pitch, and make it up with out grabbing any gear. I will never learn.