Escalante East

March, 1998

Part 2

We return to the Escalante.

[Part 1]

Day 6, 3/24/1998

Canyon hopping.

As we are leaving camp a big horn sheep shows up on a nearby ridge and spends a couple minutes posing for photographs.

From camp we drop down onto a shelf above George's camp and follow a faint trail west. Soon we come to a pass to the south and cross over into another canyon. We follow that a short ways then hop over another ridge. These canyons are at the boundary between Kayenta and Wingate sandstone and just spectacular...


(Utah through my sunglasses.)

I take portraits of everyone on the trip:

We take a short day and camp on the slickrock bench. Andrew rappels into the inner gorge of the canyon. A half hour later he's back. He says that he was able to explore a short distance then was stooped by a large pool. But with more gear it may be possible to climb into the pool, go further, then climb back out. Or, even to run around a thin ledge above the pool. We get some longer slings and rap down. Andrew anchors the sling and climbs down to the water. It is an unpleasant stagnant pool and he's reluctant to enter it. Meanwhile I'm perched just above him looking at the ledge. It starts out almost flat enough to stand on, then blends into the vertical wall. But I'm thinking that if I launch with enough energy running around the curve will keep me on the ledge far enough that I'll be able to jump to the sand beyond the pool. I launch, run the ledge, jump, and clear the pool. Andrew climbs back up and runs the ridge. We encourage Marie to follow, but she laughs at us and says that she'll wait and take pictures of us swimming back through the pool of cess.

Andrew and I explore down the canyon for several bends. We find a break in the left wall which we can climb up and walk back to camp. I rap down again and sneak up on Marie from behind. We prussic back out of the gorge.

Day 7, 3/24/1998

Marie runs the ridge. Crossing the Escalante

In the morning Marie decides that she does want to run the ridge. We rap down. I take her camera and run around the ridge. Marie sets up and launches...

We pack up camp and continue down canyon. Near the Escalante we cross over to another canyon, head it, then follow a small ledge across a cliff face.


Cliff on left and Escalante on left.

From the far side we descend a rubble slope, cross the Escalante, and camp on the sandy bank.


Day 8, 3/25/1998

Hiking the Escalante rim.

It is a glum camp with lots of blowing sand and a little rain in the morning. The only water we have is from the Escalante and it is thick with fine sediment. We try to filter it through an old towel, but that does not help much.

From camp we hike up the Escalante a couple minutes, then grind our way up a large sand dune to the Kayante level.

We hike the Kayante benches for a while then climb a short 5.2 crack to the Navajo. Initially this is complex country. Further south it opens to a large plane. We cross to a small hill and find the entrance to Fools Canyon.


Hiking through Navajo domes.


Entrance to Fools canyon is on rubble slope to right.


A pillar passed on the way down.

We drop down to the Kayante on a rubble slope, follow the ledge around to another side canyon and drop into that.


Beautiful slickrock floor as we near Fools Canyon.


Bypassing the tall grass.


Clear pool just below camp.


Above the pool is a nice slickrock camp. The sun comes out for a while and provides beautiful evening light. Then we look west and see huge clouds descending on us. It rains lightly that night.

Day 9, 3/26/1998

Crossing Coyote Gulch.

We exit Fools canyon via an old cattle trail. At one place the old ranchers have blasted a ramp through a short cliff. Above, we again hike across Navajo domes toward Coyote Gulch. Our goal is Jacob Hamblin arch. We arrive at the canyon rim and it is nowhere in site. Andrew studies the map and declares that it should be to our right. We climb over a dome and there it is. The arch strikes me like a painted backdrop. It is somehow fantastically large.


First View of the arch.


Descending the spine of the arch.

The descent down the spine of the arch is technical. There are two low 5th class pitches. Since we have no protection the last person down will have to solo. We decide to use the following procedure: The last person down will first climb down with their pack then come back up. This gives them a chance to practice the moves before going live.

I get the first pitch, go down and come back up. It is exposed, but easy climbing. We are soon all at the bottom of the first pitch.


Beginning my first climb down the upper pitch.


Andrew coming down the upper pitch.

It has been threatening to rain all day. For the past hour we have had light sprinkles which have not even we the rock. But now the rain sets in and pretty quickly everything is wet. The ledge is large, but there is no good anchor on it. Nor is there a good stance. To belay Andrew I sit on the ledge and put my feet on some small and poorly angled ridges. Marie clips into my harness and sits behind me. Andrew climbs down with his pack. When he comes up he has a grim look on his face. Marie is next, and she calls for tension several time. There is now tension all around.

When I climb down my only anchor is Andrew sitting on the ledge. This would be a tricky down climb even when dry. I don't envy Andrew.


Our belay for the lower pitch.


Me climbing down the lower pitch.


Me leading up the exit slabs.

At the bottom we take a break under the overhang to put on warm, dry clothing and eat some food. We walk down stream around one corner and come to the bottom of our exit, a long, wet 4th class slab. It's my lead. I tie into the rope, but since there is no protection there is no belay. I start up on a row of moki steps, then pick my way up ramps. Part way up a large group of raucous guys stop for a break right below us. They are positioned just so that their talk and laughter echo loudly up to me. Again, the climb is not too hard, but the cold, the wet, and the noise makes it an intense experience.

Eventually I run out of rope, wedge myself into a fairly secure corner and yell "Belay On", which echoes down to Marie and Andrew. Marie comes up with her pack. Andrew comes up with his, then goes back down to get mine.


Final walk to car.


End of trip portrait.

From there it is another hours walking back to the car. We quickly load up and drive the last sandy portion of the road before rains make it impassible. Soon it starts to snow. By evening we are in a Best Western.

[Part 1]



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Page last modified:  Feb 01 00:46 2003  by  Tom Unger